Singapore’s Delights: A
First-time Experience
Art Fazakas
Guest Travel Writer
I'm amazed,
even dazzled, by Singapore. Despite the profusion of modern shopping malls, including some
of the world's most advanced, such as Sun-Tek Centre and Marina (a vast interconnected
complex where I had to constantly ask directions) - and high-rise office buildings -
despite all of this, the people have retained their very warm, friendly and gentle nature.
It's truly a pleasure to be here. After the cold impersonal nature of Hong Kong, I finally
feel like I’m really in Southeast Asia.
It's a lot
warmer, too. If you don't spend too much time in direct sunlight, heat should not be a
problem.. There are many breezes when you're in the shade, and lots of A/C everywhere. So
far I haven't gotten a cold from going in and out. Normal temperature is 90 to 100 F, with
humidity 90 to 100 percent. As the book says, you are always sweating, even at 2:00 a.m. I
learned my lesson about umbrellas: I got caught on the first day and had to wait in front
of the Singapore Cricket Club, watching members get into new luxury cars. So I bought an
umbrella for S$2.50 (about USD1.75). I thought I might faint from the heat once, but I was
okay after all - the body adjusts quickly.
I'm not
rich, but after an hour comparing guidebooks, I chose Frommer because I like the format
best. However, it's the worst book for budget hotels, as it only lists two out of about
three hundred. One needs The Rough Guide or Lonely Planet for cheap digs. Frommer’s
says, "This city works." And how!
The airport
is hands-down the most beautiful and impressive one I've ever visited. I could just stay
there half a day and enjoy it. What a welcome to a country! Top prizes should go to the
architects. Within Twenty minutes of alighting from the plane, I had:
---used the bathroom
---gone through Customs
---picked up my bag (only one carry-on allowed on China Air)
---exchanged currency
---used an ATM for more cash
---found the Accommodations desk and made my room reservation
---found the City bus downstairs and boarded it.
All of that
in twenty minutes flat. I challenge you to try that at any other airport. My hotel,
located in the "Little India" part of the city adjacent to the high-powered
financial center, costs an amazingly low SGD45
(US25) per night, and for that I get A/C, linen changed daily, private bath and shower in
one modern compact unit, TV (no zapper), no windows with distracting views, and VERY quiet
nights. It's exactly what I need after a full day on my feet exploring Singapore in
tropical heat. It's wonderful to come back, click on the A/C and flop on my comfy, double
bed. I'm sleeping like a baby. And this place is on the low end of the scale - imagine a
hotel considered "better." Distance from the financial center is one factor in
price. (I could have taken a comparable room for S38 (USD20) but didn't want to be farther
out.) I've been on the backpacker circuit too long (in Oz and Hong Kong) so even a budget
room seems like Heaven. Did I mention that my room has no windows? Yes, Frommer's warned
about that. It's actually better - no one can enter (just kidding - crime is almost
nonexistent here, famously so.) No, it's better because that makes the room DARK and QUIET
at night, and that adds up to GOOD SLEEP! And the front desk people flash big, warm smiles
each time I go by. They seem content with their work, at least that's what their huge
smiles tell me. And it's a very, very nice way to start the day. One of my best friends
(on the list) asked me, "Would you really spend two weeks in Singapore?" Sure!
Absolutely - it will be hard to leave. The friendly spirit reminds me of Brazil. If you've been here, you know what I mean.
So, is there
anything negative to report? Well, yesterday I went to a nature preserve called Bukit
Timah. The bus driver told me the correct stop, but waived to the left instead of
indicating that I should cross the road - the entrance was on the right, not on the left.
Not being very observant, I missed the signs and walked about half a mile too far on the
left side, and reached a different nature park, so I inquired at the gate to an
ultramodern townhouse village (like those adjacent in Redmonds, WA) and the guards
directed me all the way back to where I had alighted from the bus. I was thinking,
"They need to improve the directions to this place - Harumphh!" but it was my
fault. I can't expect bus drivers to speak English as if they were born in Seattle - after
all, I can't speak Malay or Chinese...) The lesson was to look around carefully and to
ASK, ASK, ASK if you don't know where someplace is. People are glad to
As an
example, after alighting from the city bus from the airport, I approached a young couple
to ask about my connecting bus. They stopped and took out their bus guidebook, studied it,
then said, "We're going that way too" so we walked together and they told me
about the Singapore International Film Festival (I was able to get some tickets, even
last-minute.) When I asked if they were both from
---take a boat tour of the river and harbor, which is No. 1 in the world in cargo volume,
in number of containers, number of vessels per year (three or four ships arrive every
MINUTE). The trade figures are
---see four
films in the International Film Festival. One, "Barking Dogs Never Bite" (from
South Korea) was absolutely brilliant, spellbinding. One of the most creative films I've
ever seen - and
---visit
Raffles Hotel - what can I say? Words fail in trying to convey its magnificence. You just
have to see it. I'm afraid I'm starting to sound like an employee of the tourist board. Of
course, drinking a Singapore sling is de rigueur, and breakfast or lunch at Raffles are
"affordable" and not to be missed. As the writeup says, "The Raffles Hotel
conveys the kind of grandeur that only history can confer."
---explore
Suntek City and Marina, getting thoroughly lost. Make a little map to retrace your steps,
if you hope to come out where you entered. Of course, I've also experienced a few other
giant malls, such as New World City where some of the films are being shown. There are
probably 300 shopping malls in Singapore, many of them interconnected. One actually needs
a tour to get oriented. I was thinking yesterday, while walking the nature trails, that
Singapore seems to be two worlds in one - the outdoors with its heat and rain,
---attend a
concert by the Singapore Symphony. Despite a local's warning that "they can be
awful" I found the opposite true last night. The concert overall was wonderful, and I
say that as one who has deprived himself of classical music (with one or two exceptions in
Oz) for over three months. I needed this hit of Bernstein and Tchaikowsky. The hall is
beautiful - and that's what you'd expect considering it is across the road from City Hall,
Parliament and the Supreme Court, all of which are spectacularly visible from across the
river at night. Just being in the hall was lovely, and I felt homesick for Carnegie Hall
and New York. I'm not just saying this, the performances were excellent. The Korean
pianist, who has two Juilliard degrees (studied with the biggest names in piano pedagogy)
was very assured and brilliant at times - certainly has the chops to handle the
Tchaikovsky No. 1, but alas, he and the orchestra were not always together, especially in
the first movement. The pianist looked at the conductor once or twice, hands on the keys,
as if to say, "Come on, come on." Perhaps they needed more rehearsal time.
(Mozart rehearsed his players until they couldn't stand up or move their arms, and he
still wasn't satisfied unless the musician was brilliant or one of his lovers.) So I had a
wonderful concert and felt refreshed in spirit and ready to see more of this center of
Southeast Asia.
---visit the
hopping and bopping Boat Quay, one of Singapore’s prime night spots. There are about
two dozens bars, cafes and discos. You can walk by each one, but a young woman will
approach and say, "A drink for you, sir?" They're all competing, of course. I
had to say, "No, thanks." a few times. "Why?" "Well, I just want
to hear the music." "But you can hear it inside..." "Yes, but I want
to check it out before I go I." "OK, but why not have a drink?" It's a
little annoying, but I recalled that the sidewalk is public and I have the right to stand
there and do nothing if I like, but they have the right to approach and invite me to
enter. Fair is fair. I did want a beer, so found a great jazz club with an excellent band
- mix of black and white American musicians either on tour or living in Singapore. They
were very good in Aretha Franklin and blues numbers. I bought a pint glass of Malay beer
for S$13 - that's right, about USD8. Drinks are expensive here, because my understanding
is the government wants to somehow discourage alcohol consumption. Yet people drink as if
it were almost free.
At
restaurants, ask if the food is spicy. Noodles look tame (and appealing) but are often
very hot. My poor stomach is mad at me for several offenses.
There's much more to see - the Zoo, with its special Night Animals show, the Botanic Gardens, and Jurong Birdland, one of the most spectacular nature parks in the world. Singaporeans go again and again (how many times have you been to the Bronx Zoo?) This place rocks! By all means, visit Singapore. It's a unique experience, a melding of leading-edge technology with traditional values of warmth and kindness. Singapore is truly the shining light of Southeast Asia.
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